Winchester

Links to my jumper, skirt and socks here. Handbag is old and from Osprey London. The Joules jumper & socks were gifted.

My love affair with Winchester started a year ago and I think it could be serious…

I stumbled across it by accident one day, when scrolling the internet for inspo. I have mentioned a few times that I currently reside in London. But my dream has always been to have a flat in London, and a home in the countryside to raise a family. My weekends tend to fill up with new places to visit, and Winchester offered that classic combination of countryside aesthetic within a 2 hr reach of the capital. Almost immediately after arriving there,  I fell in love with the city, which actually has more of a town-like feel to it . 

To mark my one-year anniversary with Fort Venta (formally known as), I figured why not have some fun and revisit the scenic place during the May bank holiday weekend. So, join me as I explore my favourite spots and discover new ones. Let’s together soak up the myths and legends of this once, Anglo-Saxon capital.

Winchester Cathedral.

Arrival at Winchester

Let’s begin with my arrival. I dumped my bags and did a quick makeup refresh at the Airbnb home. My stomach started to grumble as it was lunchtime, so I hit the high street ASAP. I was going to grab lunch at one of the many lovely cafes, but the weather was humid and I opted for a supermarket meal deal instead, so I could settle down on the lawns of Winchester Cathedral. If you’ve lived in the UK long enough, you know better than to squander the sudden warmer climate. There is something so relaxing about sitting with fellow picnickers and enjoying the gentle tolls of the Cathedral bells. I loved just sitting, people watching and admiring the 1000 year old historical landmark. If you end up looking for a respite during your Winchester exploring, I highly recommend finding a spot on the green and letting life roll by.

Inside the cathedral is extraordinary.

Winchester Cathedral

Speaking of the cathedral, it’s got to be on the must-see list and I cannot recommend the tour enough. It’s mostly run by volunteers and when I say you get your money’s worth! You inspect every stone, every carved piece of wood, every tile of the structure. There are so many amazing pieces of historical facts such as, during WWII, when Hitler was invading Europe, he had planned to make Winchester the capital of England, if he had been successful. Not only that, but it was written that he had desired to hold a coronation (or similar type of celebration) in the cathedral in honour of his victory. In fact, the Nazis had strict orders not to bomb or shell the city of Winchester during the Blitz. 

On a lighter note, when the tour leads you to the roof of the cathedral (told you this tour was extensive), you will witness the same oak beams that have held the roof since it was originally built. A thousand year old wooden beam, can you imagine? It is huge, by the way! Of course, the cathedral has seen some modern structural upgrades since then. The last major reconstruction was done during the Victorian period! I swear, the craftsmanship of our ancestors was at another level back then. The tour itself lasts about an hour, give or take. I just can't get over how much you’re able to see, including the enormous bells (a whopping 16 in total) and the rooftop that offers panoramic views of the city. 

The view from the top of the cathedral. You can spot Winchester College in this picture.

The Western Gate. The last remains of the original city wall. This used to be the entrance to the city.

Winchester City Mill

If you wish to continue your nerdy tour (I love historical buildings), then the Winchester City Mill and The Great Hall are fabulous finds. Let’s start with the mill, a site donated to the National Trust in the late 1920s.

So…I didn’t expect that I would lose so much time here…but that’s a good thing! The day I went, they actually had guest speakers, farmers who talked about the different types of wheat and grain. I’m a novice to agriculture, but even I can't deny the significance of the industry and its impact on all of us, everyday. To learn more about their process was very enlightening.

I have also recently begun watching Clarkson’s Farm (good bit of background TV) and it is very sad how much of the short stick farmers receive in the UK. But I digress, we were talking about the mill…

So, expect guest speakers and volunteers to talk about milling traditional stoneground wholemeal flour, using the power of the River Itchen. You learn some fabulous (and bizarre) facts about English land and farming laws. It is one of the oldest mills in the UK, dating back to the times of the cathedral, so yes, 1000 years old. It’s incredible isn't it?!

The City Mill is also home to a wide variety of wildlife and you can watch the city otters’ adventures from their live feed and regularly updated archive footage. Otters are my favourite animals although they're not my spirit animal (I think the fox is, but that’s another story). They are cute but they're not to be messed with, a great combination and metaphor.

The only downside to my visit I would say, was the staff’s consistent need to ask for donations. I totally understand that charities like the National Trust rely on public donations, but it started to get a bit much. Like every conversation with someone there led to them asking for money. But it didn’t dampen the experience, just a note of caution for you.

Winchester City Mill dates back a 1000 years!

The Great Hall

I came across The Great Hall quite by accident. It was on my last day and the weather had started to falter back to rain and dark clouds. I ducked inside and I let out a gasp. The Great Hall is a magnificent building and was once a part of Winchester Castle, which was founded by William the Conqueror in 1067. The Great Hall was actually added in 1222 by Henry II and the architecture is one of the earliest Gothic style mediaeval halls in England. On the end wall, the legendary Round Table of King Arthur hangs. It’s unlikely that this is in fact the true round table, (as the table itself was built in the 13th century), but it only adds to the hall’s mystique and general allure.

On the other end wall, lies the names of distinguished people and knights, some dating as far back as the 1300s. The windows were added during the Victorian era and display The Heraldry (coat of arms), which shows the chronology of Kings, Queens, Bishops and important persons with links to Winchester. Be sure to also take a stroll through Queen Eleanor’s Gardens and wander the Long Gallery that provides greater detail of The Great Hall’s historic timeline.

Ok, are we exhausted by the historic tour now? Alright, I hear you! I understand that touring museums or castles isn’t for everyone, and I will admit if that's the case for you, then maybe Winchester isn't going to be your bag. There are plenty of green spaces and walks that you can do though, if you simply wish to enjoy the outdoors. The meadow walk is a circular one that gives a great outlook on the central part of the city. That circular trail starts just outside the City Mill. You are also at the gateway of the South Downs National Park. There are plenty of cycles, walks and hiking routes available.

Along the path of the Meadows Walk, you’ll see such cute spots.

Finally

Winchester is such a delightful city and it will always hold a special place in my heart. It garners such great memories for me. I mean, at one point, I had even thought of moving there after I had felt exhausted enough of London. It’s vibrant, with lots of young families and there’s always something going on there. It doesn't feel like a retirement home area. But something has changed that feeling and stirred something else within me.

One morning, I was shooting content outside the cathedral. Naturally, passersby are curious and ask me questions. I had a conversation with a mature married couple and the wife’s father. I was so exuberant about my love for the city and being born and bred there, the couple nodded warmly in agreement. They had lived in Winchester for decades and yet, they were moving. Where? To Durham. Twenty minutes away from my home city!

They felt Durham was much more picturesque, less busier and more family oriented. They had grown tired of Winchester and wanted a change. Plus, undeniably, you get more space in the north. Your money for a new home travels a lot further. I couldn’t help but laugh to myself. It’s funny how much the ‘grass is greener’ mode of thinking is prevalent amongst today’s society. 

Look, am I saying you’re going to fall in love like I did and move to the city of Winchester? No. You probably won’t feel the same exact way. But, this area of Hampshire county is worth visiting. Historical buildings, pretty green spots, a vibrant high street and food markets galore. You won’t be disappointed. Where is your love affair? What place makes you come alive? Places have a way of awakening something within us, something we didn't know could be stirred. Even if you never go to Winchester, I implore you to find your own place and visit it often. Don’t leave long gaps like I did, let the love affair grow and deepen.

Good Places to Eat

The Market Square boasts plenty of great cafes and restaurants. My personal favourites are:

The Winchester Orangery

Winchester Bakery

Honey + Harvey

If you’re looking for a fancy date night restaurant:

Chesil Factory

Rick Stein

The Ivy Winchester

Wisteria built against pretty houses. This kind of simple beauty really adds to the area, don’t you think?

Peonies in bud. That means only one thing…summer’s coming!

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