Ham House & Gardens

Let’s continue exploring the great properties we can visit in London! For those who live in the big smoke, you’ll be aware of Richmond. An affluent borough that screams countryside living - with a London postcode. I’ll chat with you about Richmond Park, Kew Gardens and the tranquil riverside village in the future. But today we’re talking about Ham House. That’s right, I’ve found another National Trust place!

This house is a great and very rare example of what Stuart period homes were like. You know of the Tudor period (Henry VIII etc.) but it’s not as common to visit well-looked after houses from the Stuart era. Especially homes of nobility. William Murray leased Ham House from King Charles I in 1626 and it was transformed by him and later on, by his daughter, Elizabeth. 

Back in December, during the magical Christmas period, I was looking for more places to explore and I discovered this absolute gem. I had never heard of Ham House, despite visiting Richmond several times. Despite its grandeur, it is nestled away, amongst the woodland. There it sits, grandly and quietly unassuming.

From the moment you walk down the trodden path towards the house, you can just sense you are not in Kansas anymore. You share the wooded path with dog walkers and horse riders on their trail. On Saturdays, the rifle and pistol club (a private members club) are in excellent form, the rhythmic crackle echoes through the woodland park. The moment you walk up to the grand house, you can tell it has been kept in outstanding condition. The walled gardens and orangery café may end up distracting you as it did with me (whoops). And then, you finally march yourself into the front entrance.

The grand staircase. The stuff of dreams.

Let’s give you a quick whirlwind recap of English history: Charles I was overthrown and later beheaded in 1649. His son, Charles II was crowned ruler in Scotland but failed at attempts to take back the English throne. Oliver Cromwell was titled as ‘Lord Protector’ of the new Commonwealth in 1653.The home survived the English Civil War. As a strong royalist family, the five years of Cromwell’s rule made life difficult for the Murrays and other noble households. Eventually, Charles II was able to restore his power in 1660. Ham House was able to become a place once again, where guests could be entertained and extravagance could be restored once more.

Ok, so why oh why is this house worthy of a visit, I hear you ask. 

Well, for one thing, the grandeur of this home. It is one of the last few remaining Stuart period homes. You will rarely see architectural and interior design of this particular time, still intact. The home was renovated a few times, especially during Elizabeth’s second marriage to the Duke of Lauderale. He was a key figure in King Charles II’s cabinet. Together, the couple shared a love for power and decadence and took to renovating the home in a spectacular fashion. You are viewing a home that has been remodelled to become bigger and more lavish. What is intriguing is the layout of the home as well. For instance, Elizabeth’s bedroom is right next door to the dining room. This is because she often liked to continue conversations with her guests, from the comfort of her bed! Imagine, Elizabeth speaking about politics with leaders of the country from her boudoir. It sounds risque for modern taste, but it was apparently quite common in home layouts for that particular period of time. Another thing that is worthy of the visit is the library. The Duke and Duchess were keen readers, having travelled and explored the world. You can notice this through their furniture designs as well. Whatever they couldn’t purchase on their travels abroad, the couple had it made in England. For instance, the Japanese furnishings found in the guest wing were in fact, designed and built in the UK. Don’t forget to visit the kitchen, the beer cellar and the Duchess’ bathroom, which are all below the house. The last room in particular is interesting, as it was one of the few houses that actually held a bathroom inside the home. For the final flourish, visit the café, second-hand bookshop and shop, which are situated in the gardens.

Hidden gems in every corner of the house.

The cutest café shop front.